Green Cable Baby Sweater

The Green Cable Sweater was knit using Baby Alpaca Silk, and a free downloaded pattern, which is now available at:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bienvenue-mon-coeur
The Bonnet is an old pattern, Patons 1238

Cutie Bee Sweater

Sweet Baby Bee Sweater;  knits quickly in worsted weight yarn.
Shown: Size 6 months, knitted with Lion Brand Wool-Ease in natural heather, oxford grey and mustard.  Less than one skein of each was used. (3 oz, 85 grams, 197 yards, 180 meters)

I used the free knitting pattern directions & links at
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/TraceyNicole/little-coffee-bean-cardigan

When knitting the Little Coffee Bean Pattern, be sure to stop alternating colors about 1/2 way between sleeve openings and waist, to allow 15  or more rows for the bee pattern and lettering.

Pattern

Little Coffee Bean Cardigan by Elizabeth Smith

Needle and yarn

Needle

US 7 - 4.5 mm

Yarn

Lion Brand Cotton-Ease

0.61 skeins = 126.3 yards (115.5m)

Maize

1 skeins = 207.0 yards (189.3m)

Almond

0.38 skeins = 78.7 yards (71.9m)

Taupe

I duplicate stitched the bee’s using Bidibid’s bumblebee chart and used this chart for the lettering.

My mom crocheted the little bee for me to gift along with the sweater. Adorable!!

 Little Coffee Bean

www.thebrownstitch.com

Pattern Info:

Sizes: 3 (6, 12) months

Finished Chest Circumference: 19.5 (21.5, 22.25)” / 49.5 (54.5, 56.5) cm

Gauge: 4.5 sts & 6 rws = 1” in St st

Yarn: 215 yds worsted weight yarn of each color (430 yds total), shown in Vintage by Berroco (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 100 g=217 yds), 1 skein of each color. Note: for 12 mo size, I recommend getting 1 extra skein of main color just to be safe.

Needles and other supplies:

• 24” / 61 cm circular knitting needles & DPNs in size US 8 / 5 mm or size needed to obtain gauge

• 24” / 61 cm circular knitting needles & DPNs in size US 7 / 4.5 mm or 1 needle size smaller than used to obtain gauge

• 4 stitch markers

• 2 pieces of scrap yarn, around 20” / 51 cm in length

• Tapestry needle or crochet hook to weave in ends

• 5 buttons, ¾ - ⅞”

Pattern stitches:

• Stockinette Stitch (St st):

flat: k on RS rws, p on WS rws

in the round: knit all rws

• 2x2 Rib:

flat: (RS): *k2,p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. (WS): p2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

in the round: *k2,p2; repeat from * to end.

Abbreviations:

CO = cast on rw(s) = row(s)

k = knit p = purl

st(s) = stitch(es) BO = bind off

St st = stockinette DPN = double pointed needle

RN = right needle LN = left needle

RS = right side of work WS = wrong side of work

pm = place marker sm = slip marker

dec’d = decreased inc’d = increased

color A = main color, used for stripes and ribbing

color B = contrasting color, used just for stripes

Techniques:

• Switching Colors Every 2 Rows: When instructed in pattern to switch colors every 2 rows you do not have to cut the yarn each time. Simply keep one of the colors hanging while you work the other. When it’s time to switch, carry the yarn that has been hanging up the side of your work, giving a little tug (but not too tight as that will cause bunching).

• YO: yarn over (bring yarn to front of work)

• m1-R: With LN pick up strand in between 2 sts from back to front. Knit into front of this st with RN (1 st inc’d)

• m1-L: With LN pick up strand in between 2 sts from front to back. Knit into back of this st with RN (1 st inc’d)

• ssk: Slip the next 2 sts knitwise one at a time. Insert LN into front of both sts and k them together (1 st dec’d)

• k2tog: Knit next 2 sts together (1 st dec’d)

• “knitting on” cast-on method: Insert RN into st on LN and work just as you would if you were knitting it, but do not pull st off needle-- instead, place new st onto left needle. You can learn more about this technique here: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/FEATsum05TT.html

Notes:

Little Coffee Bean has top-down raglan construction and is worked in one piece. Sleeves are split at the underarms and the body is worked in one piece to the hem. Stitches are picked up and worked in 2x2 Rib to create the button bands. Sleeve sts are then transferred to DPNs and worked in the round, either for short- or long-sleeves.

For raglan increases, 2 options are given: either working YO’s to create an eyelet or working m1’s to create

an invis­ible increase.

Pattern Instructions:

Beginning Neck Ribbing: With color A and smaller 24”/61 cm circular needles, CO 42 (50, 54) sts. Starting on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) until measures approx. 1” / 2.5 cm, ending on a RS rw.

Raglan Set-Up Row: Next rw (WS): p 6 (8, 8) for front, pm, p 6 (7, 8) for sleeve, pm, p 18 (20, 22) for back, pm, p 6 (7, 8) for sleeve, pm, p 6 (8, 8) for front.

Raglan Shaping: Switch to larger 24”/61 cm circular needles

Note about increases: the directions below use the “m1” form of increasing which is invisible (shown in the picture on the cover page). Another option is to use the “YO” form which creates an eyelet. You can see this version on my website as well as Ravelry.com. To use this method simply replace “m1” with “YO” below.

Note about stripes: you will now be working the striping pattern, starting with color A. Work the first 2 rws in color A, then switch to color B for the next 2 rws. Work in this fashion until you finish the body.

• Rw 1 (RS): *k to 1 st before marker, m1-L, k1, sm, m1-R; repeat from * 3 times, k to end

• Rw 2 (WS): p to end, slipping markers as you reach them

• Repeat rws 1 & 2: 11 (12, 12) times

Stitch Count = each front: 18 (21, 21); each sleeve: 30 (33, 34); back: 42 (46, 48)

Underarm Divide: (RS): *k to marker, remove it, using tapestry needle threaded with piece of scrap yarn, transfer sleeve sts onto scrap yarn, flip work over and using “knitting-on” CO method, CO 2 sts, flip work back over, remove next marker; repeat from * 1 time, k to end. Total sts on needles: 82 (92, 94).

Body:

• Work in St st until measures 3.5 (4.5, 5.5)” / 9 (11, 14) cm from underarm, making sure to switch colors every 2 rws and ending on a WS rw with color B.

• Next rw (RS): Using color A, k to end. Important Note: for 6 mo size only, decrease 2 sts evenly on this rw. For ex­ample: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1.

Bottom Ribbing: Switch to smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, continue with color A and starting on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) until measures 1.5” / 4 cm. BO in pattern.

Sleeves (work for both):

To pick what color you should start the sleeves with, look at the color of the yarn used at the underarm divide (the color of the sts sitting on scrap yarn). Use this same color to start the sleeves.

• Transfer sleeve sts from scrap yarn onto 3 larger DPNs. With 3rd DPN join yarn and pick up and k 2 sts (1 st to the right of the underarm CO sts, then 1 of the underarm CO sts), pm, pick up and k 2 more sts (the other underarm CO st and then 1 st to the left of underarm CO sts). Total sts on needles: 34 (37, 38)

• Using the 4th DPN and joining to work in the round, work in St st (in the round), continuing striping pattern every 2 rws. For short-sleeves, work until measures approx. 1.5 (2, 2)” / 4 (5, 5) cm from underarm. For long-sleeves, work until measures approx. 5 (5.5, 6)” / 13 (14, 15) cm from underarm. For both versions, make sure last 2 rnds worked are with color B.

• Last Round: Using color A, k to end, decreasing 2 (1, 2) sts on this round. Total sts: 32 (36, 36) sts

Sleeve Ribbing: Switching to smaller DPNs and continuing with color A, work in 2x2 Rib (in the round) until measures .5 (.75, .75)” / 1.5 (2, 2) cm. BO in pattern (I recommend using larger DPN to BO so that cuff is not too tight).

Button Bands:

Right-side button band:

Note: This is for a girl version. For a boy version, reverse the sides (i.e., work these right-side directions on the left side and left-side directions on the right side).

• Using smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, join color A at bottom right front edge of garment.

• Pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rws (pick up and k 3 sts, skip 1 st, pick up and k 3 sts, skip 1 st, etc) along garment edge up to the top ribbing, making sure total number of sts picked up is divisible by 4 + 2. Write this number down.

• Starting on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) for 3 rws

• Buttonhole Row Prep: using removable markers or safety pins, mark 2 sts where each buttonhole will go. The bottom and top buttonholes should be placed 4 sts in. All other holes place appox. 2-3” / 5-8 cm from each other (around 10-12 sts in between each marker).

• Rw 4-Buttonhole Row: k2, p2, remove marker, YO, k2tog, *work in 2x2 Rib to next marker, remove marker, YO, k2tog; repeat from * through last marker, p2, k2.

• Work 3 more rws in 2x2 Rib. BO in pattern.

Left-side button band:

• Using smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, join color A at top of left front edge of garment. Pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rws along garment edge down to hem, making sure to pick up the same number of sts as you did for the right-side.

• Starting on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) for 7 rws. BO in pattern.

Finishing: Weave in all ends. Block to straighten out edges and shape. I especially like to make sure the tops of the button bands and neck ribbing are all straightened out—this gives a more polished and professional look to the garment. Attach but­tons.

Schematic

A = 19.5 (21.5, 22.25)” / 49.5 (54.5, 56.5) cm

B = 5 (6, 7)” / 13 (15, 18) cm

C = 4 (4.5, 4.5)” / 10 (11.5, 11.5) cm

D = 5.75 (6.25, 6.75)” / 14.5 (16, 17) cm

Crochet Hook: 3.75mm [US F-5].
Split-lock stitch marker; yarn needle, stuffing; 2 small black dome buttons; small amount red Pearl cotton.

Size:

Bee measures 6” tall.

Gauge/Tension:

GAUGE: 16 sc = 4”; 20 rnds = 4” in sc. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc.

dec (decrease) = draw up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yarn

over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

NOTE: Work in continuous rounds of sc without joining

unless otherwise indicated. Place a marker in first stitch of

round and move up each round.

HEAD AND BODY: Begin at top of head with A, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.

Rnd 2: 2 Sc in each sc around – 12 sc.

Rnd 3: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.

Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times – 24 sc.

Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6times – 30 sc.

Rnds 6-12: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 13: [Dec] 15 times – 15 sc.

Neck-Rnd 14: [Sc in next 3 sc, dec] 3 times – 12 sc.

Body-Rnd 15: [Inc] 12 times – 24 sc.

Rnds 16 and 17: Sc in each sc around. Cut A. Stuff Head.

Rnds 18-21: With B, sc in each sc around. Cut B.

Rnds 22-24: With A, sc in each sc around.

Rnd 25: Dec] 12 times – 12 sc.

Rnd 26: [Dec] 6 times – 6 sc. Fasten off. Finish stuffing.

Weave yarn tail through remaining 6 sc, draw up firmly to

gather; fasten securely.

WING (Make 2): With C, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, hdc in next

2 ch, dc in next ch, 6 dc in last ch; working on opposite

side of ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last 2 ch;

turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next

st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last 2

sts; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, slip st in each st around. Fasten off.

Sew in place on back of bee.

LEG (Make 6): With B, ch 7; 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, slip

st in last 5 ch. Fasten off.

Sew in place.

FEELERS (Make 2): With B, ch 10; slip st in 2nd ch from

hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.

Sew in place.

Sew button eyes in place or embroider black French knot

eyes. Embroider red smile.

RED HEART® “Super Saver®”,

Art. E300 available in solid color – 7oz

(198g), 364yd (333m) or multi or fleck

color – 5oz (141g), 244yd (223m) skeins.

ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C = color A, B, C; ch = chain;

dc = double crochet; hdc = half double crochet;

mm = millimeters; rnd = round; sc = single crochet;

st(s) = stitch (es); * = repeat whatever follows the * as

indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of

times specified.

Cascading Cable Baby Sweater 6 months

Cascading Cable baby sweater

6 months    

Knit top-down  using Drops baby Merino on #4 needles;

4 double point needles used to work sleeves in the round.

Another time, I would use #3 needles for neck and edges.

Gauge = 25 stitches, 32 rows + 4 inches, 10 cm

Abbreviations:

p2 tog, k2 tog = purl or knit 2 stitches together, decrease

yrn = yarn round needle (increase)

kfab = knit front and back of stitch  (increase)

    rs= right side, ws= wrong side

twist increase= Take the yarn and twist a backwards loop. Place this loop onto the right needle, so the working yarn is pointing away from you.

*Cast on 85 st.  Work back & forth in purl 6 rows 

*Another time I would start with #3 needles.

Work button hole in band on 4th row; p2, p2 tog, yrn, p around

7th row, R1 of pattern, #4 needles,  R side, p4 (p1, kfab, k1, p1, kfab, k1)x12, p1kfab, k1, p1, p4

R2 p4, (k2, p2, k2, p2)x12, k2, p2, k2, p4

Row 3 of pattern:  first cable.  P4 (p2, slip 1 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, kfab stitch from cable needle, p2, k2)x12, p1, slip 1 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, kfab stitch from cable needle, p2, p4 (that was 2 increases in each cable)

R4 p4, (k2, p4, k2, p2)x1, k2, p4, k3, p4

R5 p4 (p2, k4, p2, k2)x12, p2, k4, p2, p4

R6 as row 4

R7 as row 5

R8 as row 4

R9 as row 5

R10 as row 4

R11  cable.  P4 (p2, slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k1, [k1, kfab from cable needle], p2, k2)x12, p2, slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k1, [k1, kfab from cable needle], p2, p4

R12 p4, (k2, p6, k2, p2)x12, k2, p6, k2, p4

R13 p4 (p2, k6, p2, k2)x12, p2, k6, p2, p4

R14,16,18, 20 as R10

R15,17, 19 as R11

R21 cable.  P4 (p2, slip 3 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k2, [k2, kfab from cable needle], p2, k2)x12, p2, slip 3 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k2, [k2, kfab from cable needle], p2, p4

R22 p4, (k2, p8, k2, p2)x12, k2, p8, k2, p4

R23 p4 (p2, k8, p2, k2)x12, p2, k8, p2, p4

R24,26 as R22

R25 as R23 

Separate for Sleeves: 

R27 As R23 Except in second cable section [kfab in last st of cable, before rib, slip rib stitches (beginning with the p2,k2,p2), 2 full cable patterns & the next rib section (including p2) onto a holder for the sleeve (36 st), increase 8 st under arm by twist increase , to be worked as 2k2  ribs with p2’s between.  Kfab in 1st st of first cable] of back, continue to work  5 cable sections across back, [kfab in last st of cable, before rib, slip rib stitches (beginning with the p2,k2p2), 2 full cable patterns & the next rib section (including p2) onto a holder for the sleeve (36 st), increase 8 st under arm by twist increase, to be worked as 2k2  ribs with p2’s between.  Kfab in 1st st of first cable] work across front.

Continue to work body maintaining the front band, 2 cables on the front, 3 ribs under the arm, 5 cables on the back, 3 ribs under second arm, 2 cables on the second front, and the second front band, for a total of 16 rows (12 more), creating & maintaining the 2 ribs under the arm (k2,p2,k2,p2,k2) on ws, (p2,k2,p2,k2,p2) on rs

For the sweater pictured above, this is what I did:  in green I will put in what I’d do another time.  These changes were made when the ultrasound showed a boy, and I decided that the sweater pictured below, which was the originally planned sweater, looks more feminine.

R37 Cable & increase  P4 (p2, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k3, [kfab 1st stitch, k3 from cable needle], p2, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p2, p4

Continue even, purling the first & last 4 stitches of each row, and treating all others as stockinette to maintain pattern another 16 rows

R 53  Cable- no increase-  P4 (p2, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k4, k4 from cable needle, p2, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p2, p4

Continue even, purling the first & last 4 stitches of each row, and treating all others as stockinette to maintain pattern another 16 rows

**R 69 Cable- no increase-  P4 (p2, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k4, k4 from cable needle, p2, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p2, p4

**Another time I would end with a more even bottom by: 

R 69 Cable- decrease-  P4 (p2, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k2tog, K2, [k2tog, K2] from cable needle, p2, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p2, p4

R70  Work as an even number row, except decrease one stitch in the middle of each cable by P2tog.

***Purl 3 rows.  Bind off.

***Another time I would use #3 needles for purl rows.

Sleeves:  From right side, pick up 8 st under arm, to be  knit.  Continue on that needle, working stitches from the holder, p2,k2,p2.  On second needle, (k8,p2,k2,p2).  Divide sleeve stitches onto 3 d.p. needles (14,14,14) such that each needle is (k8,p2,k2,p2) and work rs round & round, maintaining ridges & valleys, for a total of 16 rows (12 more). 

Cable- no increase-  On each needle: slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k4, k4 from cable needle, p2, k2, p2 = 3 cables around arm.

Work 16 rows even.

~Cable- no increase-  On each needle: slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k4, k4 from cable needle, p2, k2, p2 = 3 cables around arm.

Another time I would end with a more even bottom by: 

~ Cable- decrease-  slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, k2tog, K2, [k2tog, K2] from cable needle, p2, k2, p2 on each needle.

Work one row, decreasing in the middle of each cable by k2tog.

Purl 3 rows, bind off.

Another time I would use #3 needles for purl rows.

For a sweater that is shaped more like the one pictured below, but with the more obvious ribs of the one pictured above, use the following directions:

R37  Final cable & increase  P4 (p2, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k3, [kfab 1st stitch, k3 from cable needle], p2, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p2, p4

Continue even, purling the first & last 4 stitches of each row, and treating all others as stockinette to maintain pattern another 34 rows, 4” 

Purl 3 rows.  Bind off.

Sleeves:  From right side, pick up 8 st under arm, to be  knit.  Continue on that needle, working stitches from the holder, p2,k2,p2.  On second needle, (k8,p2,k2,p2).  Divide sleeve stitches (6 +36) onto 3 d.p. needles (14,14,14) such that each needle is (k8,p2,k2,p2) and work rs round & round, maintaining ridges & valleys, but not doing any more cables or increases.  Work 34 rows, purl 3 rows, bind off.

1 button at neck.

Good website for Drops merino wool:  Nordic Mart http://www.nordicmart.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=342&cat=DROPS+Baby+Merino

 

Cascading Cable Baby Sweater

There's a new baby on the way!  

Of course that inspires me to get out the knitting needles.  

My daughter, the mother, loves cables.  

I like knitting in one piece, from the neck down.  

I decided to unite the ideas, and designed this little sweater to incorporate the increases into the cables.

Cascading Cable Baby Sweater   

3 months (19” at chest)

Knit top-down  using Drops baby Merino (2 skeins) on #4 needles;

4 double point needles used to work sleeves in the round.

Gauge = 25 stitches, 32 rows + 4 inches, 10 cm

Abbreviations:

p2 tog, k2 tog = purl or knit 2 stitches together, decrease

yrn = yarn round needle (increase)

kfab = knit front and back of stitch  (increase)

twist increase= Take the yarn and twist a backwards loop. Place this loop onto the right needle, so the working yarn is pointing away from you.

Cast on 85 st.  Work back & forth in purl 4 rows 

Work button hole in band on 4th row; p2, p2 tog, yrn, p around

Next row, R1 of pattern, R side, p4 (p1, k2, p1, k2)x12, p1, k2, p1, p4

R2 p4, (k1, p2, k1, p2)x12, k1, p2, k1, p4

Row 3 of pattern:  first cable.  P4 (p1, slip 1 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, kfab stitch from cable needle, p1, k2)x12, p1, slip 1 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, kfab stitch from cable needle, p1, p4 (that was 2 increases in each cable)

R4 p4, (k1, p4, k1, p2)x1, k1, p4, k1, p4

R5 p4 (p1, k4, p1, k2)x12, p1, k4, p1, p4

R6, 8 as row 4

R7 as row 5

R9  cable.  P4 (p1, slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k1, [k1, kfab from cable needle], p1, k2)x12, p1, slip 2 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k1, [k1, kfab from cable needle], p1, p4

R10 p4, (k1, p6, k1, p2)x12, k1, p6, k1, p4

R11 p4 (p1, k6, p1, k2)x12, p1, k6, p1, p4

R12,14,16 as R10

R13,15 as R11

R17 cable.  P4 (p1, slip 3 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k2, [k2, kfab from cable needle], p1, k2)x12, p1, slip 3 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k2, [k2, kfab from cable needle], p1, p4

R18 p4, (k1, p8, k1, p2)x12, k1, p8, k1, p4

R19 p4 (p1, k8, p1, k2)x12, p1, k8, p1, p1, p4

R20 as R18

R21 as R19

R22 as R20

Separate for Sleeves: 

R23 As R21 Except in second cable section [kfab in last st of cable, before rib, slip rib stitches (beginning with the p1,k2p1), 2 full cable patterns & the next rib section (including p1) onto a holder for the sleeve (28 st), increase 8 st under arm by twist increase , to be worked as 3 ribs with purls between.  Kfab in 1^st st of first cable] of back, continue to work  5 cable sections across back, [kfab in last st of cable, before rib, slip rib stitches (beginning with the p1,k2p1), 2 full cable patterns & the next rib section (including p1) onto a holder for the sleeve (28 st), increase 8 st under arm by twist increase , to be worked as 3 ribs with purls between.  Kfab in 1^st st of first cable] work across front.

Continue to work body maintaining the front band, 2 cables on the front, 3 ribs under the arm, 5 cables on the back, 3 ribs under second arm, 2 cables on the second front, and the second front band, for a total of 14 rows (10 more), creating & maintaining the 3 ribs under the arm (k1,p2,k1,p2,k1,p2,k1) on ws, (p1,k2,p1,k2,p1,k2,p1) on rs

R31  Final cable & increase  P4 (p1, slip 4 st onto cable needle, hold in front of work, kfab, k3, [kfab 1st stitch, k3 from cable needle], p1, k2) for cables, maintaining ribs under arms, p1, p4

Continue even, purling the first & last 4 stitches of each row, and treating all others as stockinette to maintain pattern another 34 rows, 4” 

Purl 3 rows.  Bind off.

Sleeves:  Pick up 8 st under arm, to be  knit.  Divide sleeve stitches (8 +28) onto 3 d.p. needles (12,12,12) such that each needle is (k8,p1,k2,p1) and work rs round & round, maintaining ridges & valleys, but not doing any more cables or increases.  Work 34 rows, purl 3 rows, bind off.

1 button at neck.

Good website for Drops merino wool:  Nordic Mart http://www.nordicmart.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=342&cat=DROPS+Baby+Merino