Shown: Size 6 months, knitted with Lion Brand Wool-Ease in natural heather, oxford grey and mustard. Less than one skein of each was used. (3 oz, 85 grams, 197 yards, 180 meters)
I used the free knitting pattern directions & links at
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/TraceyNicole/little-coffee-bean-cardigan
When knitting the Little Coffee Bean Pattern, be sure to stop alternating colors about 1/2 way between sleeve openings and waist, to allow 15 or more rows for the bee pattern and lettering.
Pattern
Little Coffee Bean Cardigan by Elizabeth Smith
Needle and yarn
Needle
US 7 - 4.5 mm
Yarn
Lion Brand Cotton-Ease
0.61 skeins = 126.3 yards (115.5m)
Maize
1 skeins = 207.0 yards (189.3m)
Almond
0.38 skeins = 78.7 yards (71.9m)
Taupe
I duplicate stitched the bee’s using Bidibid’s bumblebee chart and used this
chart for the lettering.
Little Coffee Bean
www.thebrownstitch.com
Pattern Info:
Sizes: 3 (6,
12) months
Finished Chest Circumference: 19.5
(21.5, 22.25)” / 49.5 (54.5, 56.5) cm
Gauge: 4.5
sts & 6 rws = 1” in St st
Yarn: 215
yds worsted weight yarn of each color (430 yds total), shown in Vintage by
Berroco (50% Acrylic, 40% Wool, 10% Nylon; 100 g=217 yds), 1 skein of each
color. Note: for 12 mo size, I recommend getting 1 extra skein of main color
just to be safe.
Needles and other supplies:
•
24” / 61 cm circular knitting needles & DPNs in size US 8 / 5
mm or size needed to obtain gauge
•
24” / 61 cm circular knitting needles & DPNs in size US 7 /
4.5 mm or 1 needle size smaller than used to obtain gauge
•
4 stitch markers
•
2 pieces of scrap yarn, around 20” / 51 cm in length
•
Tapestry needle or crochet hook to weave in ends
•
5 buttons, ¾ - ⅞”
Pattern stitches:
•
Stockinette Stitch (St st):
flat: k on
RS rws, p on WS rws
in the round: knit
all rws
•
2x2 Rib:
flat: (RS):
*k2,p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. (WS): p2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to
end.
in the round: *k2,p2;
repeat from * to end.
Abbreviations:
CO = cast on rw(s) = row(s)
k = knit p = purl
st(s) = stitch(es) BO = bind off
St st = stockinette DPN = double pointed needle
RN = right needle LN = left needle
RS = right side of work WS = wrong side of work
pm = place marker sm = slip marker
dec’d = decreased inc’d = increased
color A = main color, used for stripes and ribbing
color B = contrasting color, used just for stripes
Techniques:
•
Switching Colors Every 2 Rows: When instructed in
pattern to switch colors every 2 rows you do not have to cut the yarn each
time. Simply keep one of the colors hanging while you work the other. When it’s
time to switch, carry the yarn that has been hanging up the side of your work,
giving a little tug (but not too tight as that will cause bunching).
•
YO: yarn over (bring yarn to front of work)
•
m1-R: With LN pick up strand in between 2 sts from back
to front. Knit into front of this st with RN (1 st inc’d)
•
m1-L: With LN pick up strand in between 2 sts from front
to back. Knit into back of this st with RN (1 st inc’d)
•
ssk: Slip the next 2 sts knitwise one at a time. Insert
LN into front of both sts and k them together (1 st dec’d)
•
k2tog: Knit next 2 sts together (1 st dec’d)
•
“knitting on” cast-on method: Insert RN into st on LN
and work just as you would if you were knitting it, but do not pull st off
needle-- instead, place new st onto left needle. You can learn more about this
technique here: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/FEATsum05TT.html
Notes:
Little Coffee Bean has
top-down raglan construction and is worked in one piece. Sleeves are split at
the underarms and the body is worked in one piece to the hem. Stitches are
picked up and worked in 2x2 Rib to create the button bands. Sleeve sts are then
transferred to DPNs and worked in the round, either for short- or long-sleeves.
For raglan increases, 2
options are given: either working YO’s to create an eyelet or working m1’s to
create
an invisible increase.
Pattern Instructions:
Beginning Neck
Ribbing: With color A and smaller 24”/61 cm circular needles, CO 42 (50,
54) sts. Starting on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) until measures approx. 1”
/ 2.5 cm, ending on a RS rw.
Raglan Set-Up Row:
Next rw (WS): p 6 (8, 8) for front, pm, p 6 (7, 8) for sleeve, pm,
p 18 (20, 22) for back, pm, p 6 (7, 8) for sleeve, pm, p 6 (8, 8) for front.
Raglan Shaping: Switch
to larger 24”/61 cm circular needles
Note about increases: the
directions below use the “m1” form of increasing which is invisible (shown in
the picture on the cover page). Another option is to use the “YO” form which
creates an eyelet. You can see this version on my website as well as
Ravelry.com. To use this method simply replace “m1” with “YO” below.
Note about stripes: you
will now be working the striping pattern, starting with color A. Work the first
2 rws in color A, then switch to color B for the next 2 rws. Work in this
fashion until you finish the body.
• Rw 1
(RS): *k to 1 st before marker, m1-L, k1, sm, m1-R; repeat from * 3 times, k to
end
• Rw 2
(WS): p to end, slipping markers as you reach them
• Repeat rws 1 & 2: 11 (12, 12) times
Stitch Count = each front: 18
(21, 21); each sleeve: 30 (33, 34); back: 42 (46, 48)
Underarm Divide: (RS):
*k to marker, remove it, using tapestry needle threaded with piece of scrap
yarn, transfer sleeve sts onto scrap yarn, flip work over and using
“knitting-on” CO method, CO 2 sts, flip work back over, remove next marker;
repeat from * 1 time, k to end. Total sts on needles: 82 (92, 94).
Body:
• Work
in St st until measures 3.5 (4.5, 5.5)” / 9 (11, 14) cm from underarm, making
sure to switch colors every 2 rws and ending on a WS rw with color B.
• Next
rw (RS): Using color A, k to end. Important Note: for 6 mo size only,
decrease 2 sts evenly on this rw. For example: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before
end, k2tog, k1.
Bottom Ribbing: Switch
to smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, continue with color A and starting on
a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) until measures 1.5” / 4 cm. BO in pattern.
Sleeves (work for
both):
To pick what color you should
start the sleeves with, look at the color of the yarn used at the underarm
divide (the color of the sts sitting on scrap yarn). Use this same color to
start the sleeves.
• Transfer
sleeve sts from scrap yarn onto 3 larger DPNs. With 3rd DPN join yarn and pick
up and k 2 sts (1 st to the right of the underarm CO sts, then 1 of the
underarm CO sts), pm, pick up and k 2 more sts (the other underarm CO st and
then 1 st to the left of underarm CO sts). Total sts on needles: 34 (37, 38)
• Using
the 4th DPN and joining to work in the round, work in St st (in the round),
continuing striping pattern every 2 rws. For short-sleeves, work until measures
approx. 1.5 (2, 2)” / 4 (5, 5) cm from underarm. For long-sleeves, work until
measures approx. 5 (5.5, 6)” / 13 (14, 15) cm from underarm. For both versions,
make sure last 2 rnds worked are with color B.
• Last
Round: Using color A, k to end, decreasing 2 (1, 2) sts on this round. Total
sts: 32 (36, 36) sts
Sleeve Ribbing: Switching
to smaller DPNs and continuing with color A, work in 2x2 Rib (in the round)
until measures .5 (.75, .75)” / 1.5 (2, 2) cm. BO in pattern (I recommend using
larger DPN to BO so that cuff is not too tight).
Button Bands:
Right-side button band:
Note: This is for a girl
version. For a boy version, reverse the sides (i.e., work these right-side
directions on the left side and left-side directions on the right side).
• Using
smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, join color A at bottom right front edge
of garment.
• Pick
up and k 3 sts for every 4 rws (pick up and k 3 sts, skip 1 st, pick up and k 3
sts, skip 1 st, etc) along garment edge up to the top ribbing, making sure
total number of sts picked up is divisible by 4 + 2. Write this number down.
• Starting
on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) for 3 rws
• Buttonhole
Row Prep: using removable markers or safety pins, mark 2 sts where each
buttonhole will go. The bottom and top buttonholes should be placed 4 sts in.
All other holes place appox. 2-3” / 5-8 cm from each other (around 10-12 sts in
between each marker).
• Rw
4-Buttonhole Row: k2, p2, remove marker, YO, k2tog, *work in 2x2 Rib to next
marker, remove marker, YO, k2tog; repeat from * through last marker, p2, k2.
• Work 3
more rws in 2x2 Rib. BO in pattern.
Left-side button band:
• Using
smaller 24” / 61 cm circular needles, join color A at top of left front edge of
garment. Pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rws along garment edge down to hem,
making sure to pick up the same number of sts as you did for the right-side.
• Starting
on a WS rw, work in 2x2 Rib (flat) for 7 rws. BO in pattern.
Finishing: Weave
in all ends. Block to straighten out edges and shape. I especially like to make
sure the tops of the button bands and neck ribbing are all straightened
out—this gives a more polished and professional look to the garment. Attach buttons.
Schematic
A = 19.5
(21.5, 22.25)” / 49.5 (54.5, 56.5) cm
B = 5
(6, 7)” / 13 (15, 18) cm
C = 4
(4.5, 4.5)” / 10 (11.5, 11.5) cm
D = 5.75
(6.25, 6.75)” / 14.5 (16, 17) cm
Crochet Hook: 3.75mm [US F-5].
Split-lock stitch marker; yarn needle, stuffing; 2 small black dome buttons; small amount red Pearl cotton.
Split-lock stitch marker; yarn needle, stuffing; 2 small black dome buttons; small amount red Pearl cotton.
Size:
Bee measures 6” tall.
Gauge/Tension:
GAUGE: 16 sc = 4”; 20 rnds =
4” in sc. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
inc (increase) = 2 sc in next sc.
dec (decrease) = draw up a loop in each of next 2 sc, yarn
over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
NOTE: Work in continuous rounds of sc without joining
unless otherwise indicated. Place a marker in first
stitch of
round and move up each round.
HEAD AND BODY: Begin at top of head with A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: 6
sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 2: 2
Sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
Rnd 3: [Sc
in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times – 18 sc.
Rnd 4: [Sc
in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6 times – 24 sc.
Rnd 5: [Sc
in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 6times – 30 sc.
Rnds 6-12: Sc
in each sc around.
Rnd 13: [Dec]
15 times – 15 sc.
Neck-Rnd 14: [Sc
in next 3 sc, dec] 3 times – 12 sc.
Body-Rnd 15: [Inc]
12 times – 24 sc.
Rnds 16 and 17: Sc in each sc around. Cut A. Stuff Head.
Rnds 18-21: With
B, sc in each sc around. Cut B.
Rnds 22-24: With
A, sc in each sc around.
Rnd 25: Dec]
12 times – 12 sc.
Rnd 26: [Dec]
6 times – 6 sc. Fasten off. Finish stuffing.
Weave yarn tail through remaining 6 sc, draw up firmly to
gather; fasten securely.
WING (Make 2): With C, ch 7.
Row 1: Sc
in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, hdc in next
2 ch, dc in next ch, 6 dc in last ch; working on opposite
side of ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last 2 ch;
turn.
Row 2: Ch
1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next
st, 2 dc in each of next 6 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last 2
sts; turn.
Row 3: Ch
1, slip st in each st around. Fasten off.
Sew in place on back of bee.
LEG (Make 6): With
B, ch 7; 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, slip
st in last 5 ch. Fasten off.
Sew in place.
FEELERS (Make 2): With B, ch 10; slip st in 2nd ch from
hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.
Sew in place.
Sew button eyes in place or embroider black French knot
eyes. Embroider red smile.
RED HEART® “Super Saver®”,
Art. E300 available in solid color – 7oz
(198g), 364yd (333m) or multi or fleck
color – 5oz (141g), 244yd (223m) skeins.
ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C = color A, B, C; ch = chain;
dc =
double crochet; hdc = half double crochet;
mm =
millimeters; rnd = round; sc = single crochet;
st(s) =
stitch (es); * = repeat whatever follows the * as
indicated; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of
times
specified.
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